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Jorgen Nielsen's story.
Jorgen Nielsen's story. |
The Life on Thule and Sonderstrom in the period from 1960 to 1963.
When you are visiting different "sites" about "Old-timers" on Thule and Sonderstrom, is it strikingly how few of all those Danes who worked for RCA/BMEWS and DAC on the bases in the period between 1960-63, who was to be found.
Probably it's because , we didn't have that fine IT-network like Steffen Winther's "Thuleforum", "Thule-bageren" and "Frostboksen", just to mention a few, what they can offer now a days. A matter of fact: The personal computer was hardly invented and indeed not as common-owned as today. As a result of thorough examination of the different homepages, I've only found 8-10 persons from the time I was there.
It's a pity, for here we are talking about, with all respect to the later newcomers, the real "Veterans" from the period with the cold war and a time-span more than 45 years back. The cohesiveness, as the group are now a days like the get-together on Hviid's wine bar, what we didn't managed to establish. It is of course our own fault. I had in 2003 the pleasure to be at Hviid's wine bar the 12. of December at 12,00, just to se if there were some old-timers deom my period of time, but there were none, and no one who I was talking with knew anybody from my period of time at Thule.
I was only a child when I 1st heard about Northwest Greenland and Thule, because I had a nice old uncle who literally pushed stories down my throat around Knud Rasmussen and Peter Freuchen adventures in the cold north. When I was at vacation at my aunt and uncle's house, the day's always end's with that my uncle read a couple of paragraphs from one of his exciting books before I went to bed, and he promised me, that when I could read, and was big enough to understand and worship the fine books, it would be mine. I still have them today, and they are still exited reading.
I'm born in 1935, apprenticed as a mechanics in 1954 and when I finished my soldier career in 1957, I just need to travel, I would much rather travel around the world. For a starter I hitchhiked a little around in Europe, I ran out of money, 500 Kroner, in Genoa and was so lucky to be hired on a Swedish freighter which was on its way to USA and later on: a roundtrip in the Mediterranean area. After an eventful roundtrip on 6 to 7 month I was signing off in Napoli med 1000 kroner in my pocket, so I took the train to Copenhagen and was home in the beginning of 1958.
I was feed up making vehicles and got a job as flight mechanics in SAS, in the department who took care of departing and arrival flights for the overseas destinations. Even though that it was not myself traveling it taste a little of it, and in that period I learn the small yellow "Herman Nelson" gasoline driven heaters to know, we will return to those heaters later. But in the beginning of spring 1959, my sole leather; began to scratch again!
I spend some time in Tropicana-Bar in Copenhagen and one of the guys which was a clerk in royal Greenlandic trade (KGH) told me one night, that he recently has delivered an advertisement to the main newspapers, about job on Thule in Greenland. The advertisement would be in the paper on the forthcoming Tuesday. It was about working for the American company RCA, which were building a very huge radar installation at Thule air base and they were looking for people, mechanics, workers, cooks, janitors, and chauffeurs.
They were talking about 1 year contracts which could be lengthen, free board and lodging and a salary for mechanics at 36.000 Danish kroner pr. year, no tax, free travel, both ways, and possibilities for vacation in USA, if you stayed the entire contract period. My pal suggests that we applied for a job there, and try our fortune I the cold north.
A year without ladies, I guess I could do that! It sounds exiting, and before the newspaper hit the street, our plan was to meet up at the KGH office and apply to one of the vacant jobs. My pal knew an entrance so we could come in directly to the person in charge of the personnel.
I was still living home with my mother and when I told her our plans men she was that lucky she have heard a lot about drinking and debauchery between the Danish workers and the Greenlandic girls but I calm her down with the words that there was around 10,000 men and there were no women on the Base area it self. And at least she knows where I was…
I knew where Thule were and about Knud Rasmussen's sledding's and the descriptions about the life at the settlement next to the Dundas-Mountain and remembered the old books from my uncle in Nyborg and now saw a chance to get up there and make some money and on that account became an experience richer, but we were well aware that it would be a kind of a different cup of Tea. There is no need to describe how it was, being up there, because you've all know how Thule air base looks, but what we found out before actually getting there sounds like:
Thule air base: big American airbase in the Thule-district in NV-Greenland near the old Thule, the low temperatures and from time to time storms where the wind speed exceed 200 knots caused, the expenses to build the base cost more than 220 mill. $.
Thule air Base was a very important air base in the middle of the western radar net system, BMEWS which were build as protection against unwanted intercontinental rockets. The Base is equipped with 2 runways of 3,00 km, 7 avenues, 19 streets, a 376 m. Globecom radio tower, telecommunications center and different workshops its build as a modern city with power plans, hospital, tennis courts, swimming pools, cinemas' and a number of other modern facilities.
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Not far from Thule lies Dundas: a Danish-American Weather and radio station, founded in 1932 in NV-Greenland on the south coast of the Wolfstenholme Fjord; on the place was old Thule, whose inhabitants was moved 160 km north To the settlement Qânâq (Qaanaaq) on the north side of the Inglefield Bay.
Build in 1951-53 of the USA's Air Force in agreement of a treaty of 1951 between USA and Danmark. There are still houses from the old settlement Thule, founded by Knud Rasmussen, amongst other; his own house which is a museum today, and also a memorial stone.
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Before the departure they need to run a comprehensive medical certificate, despite that Thule has the necessary hospital facilities' they would not have a bunch of half-slack people up there when we talk about a 12 hours workday, it was not for weaklings and people which have a drinking problem. It also takes a strong mentality to outstand the long and cold arctic winter, without sun or daylight in 2-3 month. At that time it was a kind of "being cool" to work at Greenland. Cryolite quarry in Ivigtut was for the harsh contractor types, hard labor, much money and a harsh life.
The constructions craftsmen in the settlements along the coastal regions, who erect houses ant other new-fangled facilities', lived closer to the native population, so many unlike acquaintances' were made when the Greenlandic girls meet the fresh young craftsmen who suddenly brought present day into their little insulated world.
There was time for "happy-Hour". Many founded their prosperity after their work period at Greenland; other drank them selves into sickness and stuff worser than alcohol.
BThe Bases were still driven by the Americans as bases for the US Air Force and the big American firms of contractors who have build the bases. When I arrived in 1959 there were between 8000-9000 and more troops were coming, in several forms for quartering, from arctic tents with space for 10-12 men, to 3 story buildings with all modern facilities'.
Many of the service functions were read to be taken over by Danish workers and it gave people many job on a completely other level than usual and the money were tax-free.Radio Corporation of America or RCA, who I worked for, was in charge of a big part of production, erection and running of most of the electronics behind the whole BMEWS System. Other building contractors were doing the roads, blast of the bedrock, and again others who demands a lot of machines and manpower.
The 12. of August 1959 was everything ready for departure. I have quitted my job and my mother gave a little goodbye party for some of the closest family, and at 23.00 I stood together with 14 other young guys in Kastrup airport waiting to depart against Sonderstrom and further on to Thule.
Now a new chapter was open in my young life. Where were we going? How would it be? What about the winter? and The long night and getting polar nuts... Thousands of questions, and Worst of all; the whole thing was very exiting!!
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So when formalities' was finished we got a room in one of the 6 newly erected 3 stores, buildings equipped with all modern conveniences; like TV-room, game room, washing machines, drying machines, good bath facilities and 3 men's dorm with wardrobe, Beds, tables, chair's and space for up to 2-300 men.
Everything was so new that we got to go down to big containers outside, getting the bed linen, woolen blankets, towels, arctic clothing with fur inside the parka coat hut, warm boots and furred mittens. Later the same day I was introduced to our new chief and workplace. The transportation chief was Francis McKay. And the workshop chief was Max Guillette. The shop was a cold garage building (S-103) near Pittufik Avenue where there were a couple of offices in one of the ends of the garage.
Our fleet consists of 11 American school busses which run shuttle between the main base and "J-site" where the big radar screens was being erected on a massive high altitude plateau above Wolfstenholme fjord. We had some station wagons and small amount of different Contractor materiel.
Our jobs were to make different service jobs and preliminary maintenances. Bigger job need to be done at a big Air Force repair shop down-town. The personnel were reached to a number of 12-15 chauffeurs and co-workers in the beginning I was the only mechanics.
I was equipped with a tool-box which must have cost a fortune. It was my tool-box if I took good care of it. "You better get the shop equipped with what's needed. You can pick up materials there and there. The winter is closing up on us, so you better start now, ask if there's anything you will like to know.
We start at 7 AM, and stop at 7 PM, or continue until the job is done. What were you doing before you came here at Thule? do you understanding English?. There is a 1 hour break from 12 AM to 1 PM and coffee breaks when they fit into the picture. You see, It shall be alright, welcome to you, let us ride a trip and I'll show you the base and nearby's". Just around that was the reception I got on the first day at the shop. What a challenge, now it was time for the business to start here on "tulle".
We visited the different places I would get in touch with, I was introduced to the different ways to work on, and I was very impressed over the size the operation was. The impression race into my head from all angles, everything was new.
The arctic year has to counter points; the pitch-dark and bitterly cold winter, which last from the 22nd October to the 22nd of February where the sun is so low under the horizon that the darkness is total, only the stars shining and the moon when it shined, not that often. The temperatures was extreme low, - 40 grader Celsius was not seldom. Nearly everything was stunned of the cold. It's bitterly cold to work outside, and therefore avoided if possible.
The arctic year has to counter points; the pitch-dark and bitterly cold winter, which last from the 22nd October to the 22nd of February where the sun is so low under the horizon that the darkness is total, only the stars shining and the moon when it shined, not that often.
The temperatures was extreme low, - 40 grader Celsius was not seldom. Nearly everything was stunned of the cold. It's bitterly cold to work outside, and therefore avoided if possible. Vehicles and motors must run all the time. Or else they would deep-freeze. During the night it was a necessity to have electrical heaters in the motor, in the water, and under the battery The engines used pure antifreeze liquid, no thinning. Thin oil becomes as stiff as cold tar
Arctic storms with velocity up to 350 kilometer/hour rush over the country, ripping everything loose rearrange the snow dunes. The wilderness of the weather are arranged in Phases and to stay outside in a Phase-3 condition could be fatal if the rules were broken, while indescribably amounts of snow are falling over the base for several days.
It's also a very beautiful and fascinating time. The black canopy is filled with twinkling stars in the deep- frozen night. Every now and then aurora borealis, northern lights was scattered over the canopy in a silent lightshow, which could cover the whole horizon with all the colors as in a rainbow for hours, for then in a split-second leaving everything black.
When the moon was full, and toss its pale light against the snow, and everything got a ice -blue gleam of extreme deep-freeze. Only they who were well-secured against the colds ice-cold embrace dare themselves out into the ice-cold night. Even the smallest glitch could cost them their lives.
And then suddenly, last in February, comes the sun back to some of the most northern hemispheres on earth and everybody expresses that it was the whole thing worth; the people at the P. Mountain saw it first. Now we are on our path to lighter and milder winds, green slopes full of small good hearted arctic flowers which shall fulfill their life cycles' in a short hectic summer, with the light shining all 24 hours a day. The snow is melting, the thaw is setting in and everything is pouring water, the temperatures were rising and the lands scenery was awake.
The ice which has bound the fjords and made long sledging possible, breaks up, first in enormous floe which are driving in the direction of the Arctic Ocean in beat with the oceans pulse, later on in smaller fragments and finally at last: the open blue ocean which again is ready to receive huge amount of slow drifting iceberg's released from the eternal calving glaciers in the bottom of the Wolstenholme fjord.
And now the high arctic summer with its sun-beam bombardment and temperatures up around 14 to 17 degree Celsius. Then the land smiles, spring goes waiting on the summer, and autumn goes, waiting on the long cold, and pitch dark winter the land is wild, harsh and violently. Thule is in a creek between two low mountain ridges, open to the sea and to the icecap.
"J-site" is located on a plateau ca. 10-12 kilometers from the base. The locations were the rocket launches should be, were taking place and they were scattered around the base. Every antenna was the same size as an international measured soccer-field vertically mounted, antenna, there were 4 of them, supported by a couple of meters tick steel-legs. Between each antenna there was a couple of roofed transport corridors, where the crew should be shuttled in small wagons in long set of carriages. In the event of a phase-3 many people sleep, eat in several canines strategic placed, and survive there for a long period.
Thousands of technicians worked there and with the time the BMEWS facility would be a vital link in a network of stations from Fylingsdales, North Yorkshire, England, to Clear, Alaska which should secure the western hemispheres against sneak rocket attack from the east. As you know; we are in the middle of the cold war. The different BMEWS sites were linked together via the DYE stations scattered down the length of Greenland, over island, and Faroe Islands and finally got into satellite from the Azores to USA
The base was defended by 4 NIKE/Hercules batteries, the air force had a number F-102 jets to their disposal, an also 90mm, and 75mm anti air canons were scattered around the base area. The Americans had a lot of things going on they were established a couple of research stations deep under the inland ice
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As mentioned before, there are only a few kilometers from the base are the remaining ruins from the Eskimo settlement and the "Thule" as Knud Rasmussen called the trading station, which him and Peter Freuchen was founded in 1910. Several places around the peninsula sees several houses made of turfs and driftwood, houses which once cultured the frame for many families' daily routines in this harsh land.
Ruins of old burial plots where bones and remains of the graves lie scattered around without protection. It hasn't been easy to dig in the arctic soil due to almost whole year of permafrost.
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A big memorial stone for Knud Rasmussen, and a flagpole, a few newly build wooden houses used by the Danish workers running the radio station, and power plant. Outermost lies the regions landmark; The Dundas- mountain, an oval, high rock-formation with steep inaccessible slopes and a flat windblown plateau at the top which only can be reached by a dangerous climb on the last vertical piece of rock before the top.
Not far from the outer rim on the Dundas mountain there is a stone cairn and Peter Freuchen' ash spread out over the plateau, as a last tribute to the country's astoundingly magnificence and harshness and a man who lost his use of one's limbs but found his happiness amongst his Eskimo friends and not at least his girlfriends. For them who can like the harsh nature and see the magnificent in the elements raging it is one of the big adventures.
For them who weren't in harmony with them selves, it was really tough with the long dark night, yearning home to see more usual surroundings, yearning after the family; it can be like a living hell and a lot quit before their contract were fulfilled. Immoderately drinking has ruined a lot of people on Greenland and marriage in Danmark. When we arrived in the middle of August, there was still normal night and day the weather was beautiful, and the sun shined from a completely blue sky for weeks.
They were taken well care of us, a new big dining hall with space for 1000 with everything in modern kitchen utensils. Fantastic American inspired food, fresh fruit and fresh milk every day, no low-budget! Cinemas where they for small money, shows the newest American movies.
Snack bars with all kinds of conventional American fast-food, milkshakes, and a real drugstore with jukeboxes' and pool-room. Px'es where we on the same terms as the American soldiers could buy much more than daily needed, like clothing, radios, TV's, Records, photo gear, everything what the heart could wish, and do you wish other more unusual gears, then they have the big AAFES catalogue, if you want to buy something special from America.
Recreation centers and later on a complete swimming hall were built in a hangar. Hobby shops with all kinds of hobby works, and photo shop. Airmen's Club, where civilians' personnel has permission to come, NCO Club for non-commissioned officers and finally, the Officers Club for the leaders.
All the places the have ability for playing cards, crap-games, slot machines, bar's with very reasonable prizes and a wide range of goods both wet and dry, some evenings they had live music either local bands or imported USO-shows with American artists of both sex. But 1st of all there was the nature with long hiking, to selected areas, sometimes hiking extend over several days with sleeping in the open.
There were Newcomers that arrive all the time, amongst them there was Freddy, he should also work as a mechanics. His likeness I've seen several times around different restaurants' in Copenhagen. We got along quite fast and together we climb the Thule-mountain and each of us put a stone on the cairn.
On several occasions we visited the ruins on the old Dundas settlement and bought some fur at a couple of the settled Eskimos.
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Personally I bought a sealskin of one of the few persons now living Eskimos ho knew and travel with Knud Rasmussen on several of his big expeditions, at the time the 17 year old "Bådsmand" (boatswain), as he were called, was now a highly respected old great-sealer in his 60ties. Those visits and our vivid imagination took us on long sledge-rides and a profound atmosphere ruled when one or several sledding's came on visits from remote insulated places or took-off against mod places over ice and land.
It was like an adventure, being there. Cut right out of my uncle's books and stories, and I was in the middle of it, what more can a man hope to live trough? In the summer, when the ice on the Wolstenholme fjord was breaking up, a couple of big ice-breakers from the American fleet arrived and steer up in the ice mass and the float of the icebergs began.
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Gradually the ice was breaking up and the stream took the ice flakes and the icebergs out of the North Star bay against open water. Then the supply-ships arrived with the next year of supply which weren't not possible to be flown in to Thule.
Later on the scavenger-ships arrived, and picked up the outgoing material, which were being fixed or sold on auctions around the world.
To chase some of the triviality amongst the thuleites after the long winter, they arranged outings into the fjord with icebreaker "USS. Westwind" on one of the tours we were at a glacier named after Knud Rasmussen. It was fascinating view to stand next to a huge calving glacier. Constantly big chumps of ice breaks off and fell out in the ocean, where thy create up to 10 feet high waves and start their drift against their own destruction and dissolving in the arctic sea.
But the job needs to be done, every day. Every morning we took the vehicles out of the ice-cold hibernation and get them running, ready to shuttle the personnel to their jobs, both close and distant.
The 11 busses was born school busses with automatic transmission, they were, without heat in the extreme harsh climate, unsuitable to their purpose. The everyday life rapidly became a routine. 12 hours of work under those climate conditions tear and needs rest, so there could be strength enough for the spare time.
But even though we have the long working days, there were still strength to have long trekking' as the trips to the icecap, and Camp TUTO which was a supply area/base for Camp Century. Camp Century was carved with a peter plow miller, a machine used by Swiss railways to get their trains trough the Swiss alps with long walk's and big hall's for the machinery and living barracks to the staff and scientists, who lived there for quite long periods. Some of the deep freeze', simply was made of a hatch and the shelves were scraped out of the ice wall.
The energy supply to Camp Century was, as we were told, a small nuclear reactor. That sounds alright the never brought fuel to the Camp. On and around Thule Air Base there were lot of secrets, not least the 4 rocket launches as protection for the base against attach from outside.
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There was a en diligent corresponding between Thule and Copenhagen, people coming back fro vacation brought a lot of personally things from home, food, carpets, and clothing every once in a while came the home-sickness on visit and the time feels extra long, and self-pettiness was heavy. But life went on one day took the next and the day when we could leave for good I just could discern it in the distance came closer every day.
Many lengthening their contracts several years earn big money and invested them cleverly, others simply used every penny, so that there was not much to bring home when their time come. When the big winter storm's was over us we need to go out in the white inferno when vehicles and staff needs help on the snowy, icy roads, also often with heavy dunes, and almost Impossible to look from one phase-pole to another, if they were stuck in a 6 - 8 feet dune or the shuttle bus were brooked down under the extreme conditions. We are talking real personnel challenges.
Every morning and evening we have 300-400 in transportation technicians' and constructing people to and from J-site. Summer or winter, often in the middle of arctic storms and heavy snow fall with very poor (or none at all) visibility, and with temperatures down to 40 degrees Celsius below zero.
When a bus brooks, or just got a flattened tire on those pretty bad roads, we received a wireless call over the radio from Hill-top then there was take-off in a hurry to found the vehicle and get the crew and passengers back to the base. To change a wheel under such circumstances is not a dance on roses, when the storms howls and snow blinds and the body is frozen cold.
We learned a lot of rational large-scale operations. When a vehicle returns with major damages which demands repair of crankcases' or engines, in Denmark we use to repair us out of the problems. "That's not rational" Max said. He was to a unit-replenishment. "You dismantle not an engine and grinds valves. You put a new cylinder head in instead and send it for repair in USA.
You need to think in bigger terms. US Air Force has 10,000 busses of this model. On our factories they have everything what's needed to make it rational and low-priced. We can't compete with them; Pick up a new one on base supply, install it, and the bus will be shuttling again within the next hour. If we should repair it, it will take us a whole day and at home there might be a worker un-employed. Hit the road. People waits. Here we do not repair the crankcase. We order a "replacement" on base supply… "
At one time, there were only 3 out of the 11 busses which were operational, which makes us out of ability to get the staff on their jobs and our chief Max ordered 3 new busses on a "NORS-K". It means delivery within 8 hours. One day, Max said to me that I should walk over to the air-lift terminal: "the new busses has arrived. Go and get them. Remember to write for them" in comes a big cargo-plane.
A sergeant comes out of the plane and asks me if I was Mister Nielsen? "Please write here and you'll have the busses". Down on the loading platform came 3 brand new busses. "Check them for motor oil, fill them up and drive down and load the staff so that they can go to work".
A fantastic motivation to achieve results, to get things done and continue the program in a professional spirit: "Business before pleasure". On the private front it was quite a challenge to live in the arctic. It was my first contact with the real world besides Denmark, and at that time, we were limited to see trailers before a movie.
The Danish television was in the early stages of public announcements, so the news was limited. Many of the entrepreneur types who worked for the American contractors were skilled people who have worked on different projects all over the world. They don't waste the time with small-talk so I guess it was school of life for me.
12 hours of work under extreme and very harsh circumstances takes some special mentality. Don't you have that, the life and missing the family easily becomes a living hell. It's of odd most importance to use the spare time to relax, and liquor isn't the solution.
On the contrary if you have the ability to howl amongst the others in the wolf-pack in a male-dominated and insulated society and also have the ability to engage yourself in the spare-time, you can really learn how to behave and learn god tone amongst the working colleagues. It was a good school which gave a lot of inspiration for later use, and opened a lot of new doors.
In August 1960 the base was visited by the royal Danish family. The whole bas was turned upside down. Everything was cleaned and even the small white stones along the roads got painted. We were invited to salute the King Frederik IX and his family which took time to talk with several of us. Freddy have an Asiatic look and when the King passed by, he asked Freddy if he was Greenlandic? Freddy could only reply no to that, but eventually the King knew better and answered; "yes, something there is to it".
When the summer 1960 was at its end, we were about ready to leave for good as hard-boiled "Thuleites". We stood up for a whole year on one of the worlds toughest working areas, "The Northernmost Air Base in the World", only a few hundred miles from the North Pole. We feel us very tough when we entered the plane which should bring us out of the Arctic and down to Sonderstrom on our way bag to civilization and the happy life.
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I was loaded with goods and presents, good memories and around 30.000 Danish kroner in the bank. I guess I could walk the water. When we later on departure Sonderstrom and flew across the inland-ice and it wasn't exactly returning to Greenland which was in our thoughts. The Base-virus hasn't touched us, one period was enough. I should have known better.
We landed on the day for departure, exactly one year after. Many were picked up by their families, kissed and hocked in their reunion. Daddy was home and loaded with money so it was party-time. Others left the airport with disappointment, obvious nobody were there to pick them up.
Three of us, Claus from "Sorø", Flemming from "Gladsakse" and I, took a cap to "Kongens Nytorv" in Copenhagen, where we put the cabdriver on hold at the road: "Strøget" while we equipped us luxurious from the city's best gentlemen's boutiques, throw the goods in the cap and asked him to follow us along the street called "Strøget" in a suitable pace.
We finished off with inviting the chauffeur on Diner in restaurant "The 7 Nations" where we drank Claus pissed and send him home to "Sorø" in the cap, who happened to have a good day looking at the tax-meter. Home at "Petersborgvej" there were lots of hogs and kisses, lots of updates on what's happened since last, old connections need to be restored, and plans for the nearest future and what the many money should be used to.
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Peter Freuchen.
Peter Freuchen. |
Those who aren't familiarly With Knud Rasmussen's and Peter Freuchens life and doings In the arctic areas, does properly not know the history about how Peter Freuchen was so unlucky to get frost-bitten feet and later on, gangrene In the left foot under a long journey to Hudson Bay, in 1932. The consequent of that accident was that Freuchens foot at last needed to be amputated to ensure that the gangrene not spread to the rest of the body and thereby at last killing him.
Just to be aware of how dangerous and dramatic such an accident can develop I will explain it. The accident is described in details in Freuchens book "from Thule to Rio", published by Fremad he wrote the book the year he died, in 1957. The whole book is exiting readings and it is to be recommended, both for people who lives in the arctic or for those who like to read about the truth Thule heroes.
The incident starts with that Freuchen lost track under a strong storm with severe driving snow he couldn't get further so he tried to make a hike, but due to the snows condition it was impossible to build an igloo and he found himself walking fourth and back the whole night just to stay warm.
Finally he got some snow pushed together next to a cliff where there was a small ravine made by the wind and drifting snow he pulls his sledge over as a kind of a roof and thereby make it as a small protections against the howling winds and tremendously cold temperatures he didn't knew anything about wind shill factors, but they were present, at last he finally fell a sleep.
When he wakes up again he discover that he's literally covered or should I said buried in snow and at the same time he sees that the sleeping back is frozen so he couldn't free himself.
Things get worse and at last he was so exhausted that he again fell at sleep. All his gear is still on the sledge, but the sledge is roof so he couldn't get hold on the tools to dig him free. In his efforts to free himself, he turns around and unfortunately his big beard was frozen against one of the sledge runners and to un-tighten himself he literally rip his beard of the skin so the blood runs down his neck.
HHe was now strongly shackled in his movements of his heavy fur coat which was wound around his body and by that prevents him for moving and thereby keeping him self warm and as a last resort he moulded his own soft bowels to a chisel and when it was frozen solid he use it to make a hole big enough that he could escape from his frozen hairy ice prison. When he tries to stand up, he could not stand on his left leg, which was completely numbed.
After falling a sleep again and awakened of his pal Patloq, which cut his sealskin boot off and thereby discover that Peter's left foot was one frozen blister with the size of a soccer ball. They left there store and started there journey homewards and their thermometers show that the temperature has reached -65,20F. Siksik, an Eskimo woman which had experiences with frost-bitten feet tried to keep his foot warm with newly killed lemmings; she simply placed them on the wound until they get cold too.
The flesh on his foot started to decay and fell off in big chunks and finally the bones was the only thing left on his left foot and it smells terrible. Siksik offered to bite his toes off because she meant that if they were away the bad spirits would left his endured foot, and not spread out to the entire body. She comes with an offer; "it's not impossible that a poor woman, not can do it so well, that it is worth a woollen sweater as a gift?" She got the woollen sweater but Freuchen refused the offer.
It ends up with that Freuchen took a pair of pliers, put it over the bare bones on his foot and took a hammer. And as he wrote in the Book: "funny enough it gave me terrible pains. Maybe it was my thoughts doing it, I was crying over my self and it gave me no relief to the foot. Maybe it was the thoughts about loosing some parts of my body, making me sad. Each man finds his body parts valuable and won't throw any parts away before time".
When they eventually reach more civilized areas his foot undergone some temporarily medical treatments and several times under the journey home to Thule the wound jumps wide open and apparently it is clear that more qualified medical care is needed to save his leg. After a journey with great unbearable pains thy reach Thule and moving on further south to Upernavik and Umanak and finally he's on his way home to Denmark where the foot was amputated.
Freuchen is well aware that his time as adventurer, and polar-researcher is over and he buy's a farm on the island Enehoeje in the southern part of Zealand and starts to write his plentiful books which were printed in many languages, countries. A marvellous carrier is over and Freuchen begins his world-wide journeys, "From Thule to Rio". Read the book yourself.
When you think about those amazing hospitals facilities now a day located at the bases, you can say the personnel are well taken care of; if the misfortune should arise. It takes a lot of goods; special mentality and willpower to walk behind the sledge from Canada to Thule with gangrene in his foot. You may admirer there efforts. It was some masculine people of special character.
In the beginning returning to Denmark went well. Touring around in Copenhagen's night-life i with the friends playing Mr. Hot-shot with all my money, I had a wonderful time at the Tropicana restaurant. And when we reach the summer of 61 I was back to normal pace and most of the money was spent.
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SonderStrom fjord.
Søndre Strømfjord |
Then one day, I suddenly saw an advertisement in the newspaper where Danish Arctic Contractors, DAC. looked for craftsmen, and unskilled labourer for Sonderstrom. The US Air Force wishes to reduce the American personnel on the base and major service functions carried out by civilian.
Amongst several jobs they looked for a Supervisor to run the shop regarding maintenance, and repair of auxiliary equipment used to hold the aircraft running in stand-by so they were ready if it was necessary. 256 gasoline driven heat canons' which was a type well known from my time working for SAS, mobile generators, mobile light systems, hydraulic auxiliary systems, tractors and vehicles and a staff of 12-15 mechanics, a couple of unskilled labourer and a supply-man.
Sonderstrom: or Kangerlussuaq; in West Greenland, at 66º North, a long narrow fjord at about 100 miles or 170 kilometer long. The air field was made by USA in 1942 to 45 with the prefix; Bluie West 8, and at the period from 1954 to 1967 also civil area used on the route Copenhagen - Los Angeles.
A modern transit hotel was established, and from 1967, a center for the flight connection between Denmark and Greenland.
Sonderstrom is pretty close to the Polarcircle, and no matter that there is cold in the winter with temperatures down to minus 20 to 30 degree Celsius, it is far from that arctic cold winter at Thule. The summer is much longer than at Thule, and that gives much more possibilities for outdoor events. There is a big difference on the weather at Thule and Sonderstrom. In a straight line there is 1500 kilometer between those two destinations. That is ofcourse 1500 kilometer more southerly.
From the on-base area to the great inland ice barriers edge, there is approxematly 10 - 12 kilometers and a beautiful trekking tour in a breeh taking landscape, and we were often hunting and having weekends tours in the area.
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© Copyright: By Steffen Winther. Owner of the Thuleforum — All rights reserved. The 3rd, 1996 - .
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